The Hunter Valley, about three hours drive north of Sydney, has traditionally been known for its great Semillons, although it played a dominant hand in establishing the popularity of Australian Chardonnay.

Names such as the great Maurice O’Shea, Murray Tyrrell, Max Lake and more recently Brokenwood’s Iain Riggs have done much for the region, although its strongest performing variety has lost much of its popularity in recent times, usurped by the extraordinary cult of Sauvignon Blanc.  

A good Hunter Semillon demands time in bottle, and rewards by developing from a vaguely grassy, lemony youth to a crescendo of honeyed, nutty, buttered toasty, palate pleasing richness at 10 to 20 years of age.

Chardonnay started its Australia-wide reign when the late Murray Tyrrell produced the 1971 Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay. Today, virtually every winery in the region produces a Chardonnay; some are richer or more complex, others are oakier but most have a "peaches-and-cream" character.  Opinions differ sharply about the keeping qualities of these wines. If varietal character is unimportant, then the deep golden, buttery, viscous opulence of aged Hunter Chardonnay will be extremely satisfying.

The Hunter Valley also imprints its regional stamp on both Shiraz and Cabernet wines but it can be argued that the inherent varietal character of Shiraz acquiesces to that stamp with greater compliance than does Cabernet Sauvignon.  Moreover, Shiraz makes the same transformation in bottle as Semillon, moving from an astringent, angular and spiky youth into a savoury, velvety maturity at 20 or even 30 years of age.

After a hiatus of more than 30 years, Cabernet Sauvignon was re-introduced to the Hunter by Dr Max Lake at Lake's Folly in 1963.  Since that time it has been planted at almost every vineyard in the Valley.  It produces an idiosyncratic style and some fine wines are made here from this grape.
A plethora of other wines are also made, either as straight varietals or as blends, of which Verdelho is the most important in terms of volume.

– Includes material from the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation

- Image courtesy of Sally Mayne

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